Measured the voltage at the "business end" of the other controller, parallel across the input voltage common to the "hot" MOSFETs and ground. (There are six MOSFETs in the "driver" end of the circuit - 3 "hot" and three ground. We switch different coils' "hot" and "ground" connections to rotate the magnetic field, causing the wheel to spin.)
Granted the battery voltage *does* drop over time during the run, but not more than 1 to 2 volts per mile. I just need to make sure that the overvoltage isn't allowed to get in there and damage the motor as it almost did last time. These are poor inner-city students: if this battery goes kaput and they have to replace it, they may (in desperation) get just about anything, and that almost assuredly means voltages higher than 36V, so I/we have got to be prepared.
Thus I'm shaking, rattling, and rolling *everybody's* trees to see what they know, and if they can transfer some of that knowledge to me in time to get this thing in gear. (Who am I fooling: this car doesn't have a transmission, let alone gears...) |
